Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2020 in Paris. The aesthetics of the monastery, austere simplicity.

At the Haute Couture Week in Paris, a presentation of the new spring 2020 couture collection from the Chanel fashion house was held. The venue for the show has traditionally been the vast exhibition hall of the Grand Palais, the space of which was designed in the form of an abandoned courtyard of the Obazin Abbey.

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Spectators of the fashion show settled down on long benches along the perimeter of the site. White sheets were hung on ropes at the back. Models walked along the stone paths of a slightly unkempt green garden to the measured murmur of an old fountain. A similar corner was part of a monastery, within the ascetic walls of which, under the supervision of strict nuns, Gabrielle Chanel spent her childhood.

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The aesthetics of the monastery, austere simplicity undoubtedly influenced the creativity of the founder of the fashion brand. And today Virginie Viard, the new creative director of the company, tried to recreate this period in the life of Chanel and convey the mood and the surrounding atmosphere of that time in the presented fashionable images. The ascetic, monochrome outfits made in strict geometry clearly resemble the serf Romanesque architecture of the monastery cloister.

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During her visit to this historic site, Viard literally fell in love with the rustic charm of the walled garden and brick path. This extraordinary prototype has become the defining motif of the couture collection.

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As the designer herself said behind the scenes of the show: “I immediately liked that the monastery garden was not cultivated. The sunny and a bit deserted place made me think about the summer, the wind with the scent of flowers. In the collection, I wanted to highlight the paradox between the sophistication of haute couture and the simplicity of this place. "

In my opinion, the designer did a great job. Viard managed to show that haute couture was created not only for the red carpet, but inspiration can be found even in the severity of the French monastic past. We usually expect to see revolutionary colorways, asymmetrical cuts and incredible silhouettes - in a word, works of fashionable design art. This is not here.

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Virginie moved away from complex shapes and a bright colorful palette, offering a laconic cut, classic clean shades, delicate embroidery and floral appliqués. Fragile models strolled along the paths among lush greenery in restrained tweed suits, midi and maxi dresses, layered organza dresses. Some images were complemented by a large lace collar, and open shoulders were hidden by an airy cape.

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Almost every fashion ensemble included opaque white tights and tucked-in socks - a kind of association with young students. In the words of the designer: "I loved this idea about conventions, about schoolgirls and about clothes that kids have been wearing for a long time."

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Yes, the comparison with the past is instantly readable in the shoes presented to the audience. Black and white shoes with or without laces, with small heels became a logical continuation of the chosen theme.

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The new couture collection from the Chanel fashion house can be called almost monochrome in terms of color. Except for a few soft pastel shades, which successfully diluted the black and white palette.

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Touching, in some ways even a little naive, and at the same time elegant, with a charming touch of retro - fashionable outfits from Chanel still carry the DNA of the brand, but still in a modern design.

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